MONTMARTE

By the end of the 19th century Montmarte was a mecca for artists, writers, and poets, not to mention a home for bordellos and cabarets. The reputation still stands.  Oddly enough, one of the most holy places that I have ever visited sits at the pinacle of Montmarte and is probably its most popular attraction.  That holy site is Sacre-Coeur.  Nothing I could say would do it justice. I must tell you that a feeling of "peace" came over me as I entered.  Behind the alter there is a mosaic of Christ that you have to see to truly appreciate.  I have experienced many cathedrals in Europe, and this one makes a lasting impression.

Let's back up.  There's no easy way to get to Montmarte. There is only the trek up the hill.  As it was getting past lunchtime, I decided to stop and have a bite.  The crowd at Montmarte is a captive audience, and that is reflected in the price of the food.  Nonetheless, this was a good salad.  I like the French take on salads.  As with this one, there is little dressing or just some olive oil.  They let the fresh ingredients speak for themselves.  In this case it was field greens, roquefort cheese, tomatoes, walnuts and lingonberries.  I really hope I spelled lingonberry right.  That's what the waiter told me they were. 

Half-way up to the top I ran into a bandstand that had gathered quite a crowd.  People were dancing and having so much fun; women dancing with women, men with women, women with babies.  It was all so festive. 

As always, there's plenty of street entertainment at Montmarte.  Jugglers, mimes, magicians and accordian players were all gathered to entertain the masses.  And that they did.  Note the guy below in the background pouring his friend a glass on wine on the street.  That's the rule there, not the exception.

This man was juggling flaming liquor bottles.  Really, he was.  The crowd loved it.  How could you not?  That's the way it goes in Montmarte, but today was special.  They were celebrating a huge festival consisting of booths selling wine, cheese, foie gras, woolens, bread, sausage, and more.  There were hordes of people.  I had a terrible time getting through the crowd to catch a train, but so what. It was entirely worth the trouble.

I did some Christmas shopping, met two completely lovely women from Long Island and had an altogether great day.  Today wasn't a significant culinary experience, but those days are to yet to come.  Tomorrow starts French language school.  Prepare to laugh.  I'm not afraid to speak, but my accent is terrible.  I know that for sure, but I can't wait to try.